POV: Birdshop Bakehouse + Pumpkin Olive Oil Cake with Black Pepper Vanilla Mascarpone Mousse, Salty Date Caramel + Tahini White Chocolate Buttercream Recipe

An interview with founder, Liz, and a decadent cake recipe perfect for fall!

Honey, orange blossom and caramelized white chocolate madeleines.

A selection of Liz’s mouth-watering creations from her Instagram feed.

I’m so excited to introduce you to Liz Ho of Birdhouse Bakeshop. I’ve been following and admiring Liz’s work for sometime now. Her creations are absolutely stunning, and of course, I love the way she uses flowers in her styling. Plotting and scheming on how I can one day taste one of her creations - I see a trip to Alberta in my future. But in the meantime, I’m so happy to have her here on the Wu Haus Substack with an interview and an absolutely mind-blowing cake recipe that’s perfect for fall and the upcoming holiday season! Liz bakes the most gorgeous treats with some of the most delicious-sounding flavor combinations I’ve ever heard of. I really enjoyed interviewing her, learning about her creation process and how much love and memory she pours into her work. Enjoy!

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Tell us about yourself.

Hi! I’m Liz Ho of Birdhouse Bakeshop. I was born and raised in Alberta, Canada, where the mountains meet the prairies. A lot of who I am comes down to place, family and love. My parents instilled in me an endless love of cooking, nature and the joy of feeding people, which directly shaped my lifelong pursuits as a baker and creative.

How did you get into baking?

It’s hard to pinpoint a moment, but I grew up in a household, a culture, that celebrates cooking above all. Growing up with immigrant parents, I was taught that food was not only a tether to a life left behind, but a way to communicate love, empathy, tenderness. Words are a beautiful thing, but more often than not, I struggle to articulate what is in my heart. Baking has always been my form of expression, and of creating connection, when words fall short. I started Birdhouse in 2020, during the pandemic. I really just craved that connection, and being able to explore flavors reminiscent of my Chinese-Malaysian upbringing. It’s all more or less an extension of my childhood.

Lavender white chocolate scones with honey roasted peaches and apricots.

What’s your first memory of cake?

A cake memory that stands out in my mind was a disaster and a lesson all at once. It was my first layer cake – composed of chocolate, olive oil and figs – I was so hopeful and couldn’t wait to impress my loved ones. But the frosting was too soft, the jam was spilling out of the sides. It was a lopsided, wobbly mess. I was so upset with myself. I had a mini meltdown. And yet, people still loved and devoured it. The way it looked did not matter; the taste, intention, and love were enough. It was a good reminder of how we can love and nourish ourselves, and each other, fully and completely, without doing so perfectly.

I used to be very wrapped up in the idea of “perfection”. I would dwell on having control. Judging myself for every mistake or shortcoming. Not affording myself the kindness that comes with forgiving imperfection and unpredictability. The more I bake, the more I depart from that line of thinking. Just accepting failure as a part of learning.

The process of baking can be vulnerable. It’s a kind of vulnerability that encourages you to find love, as well as freedom, joy, and trust in the process. Fixating on creating the perfect cake will not save you, and a pie that comes out of the oven looking unlike what you expected will not be your undoing. I always think about this Elizabeth Gilbert quote, “The world is like a dropped pie most of the time. Don’t kill yourself trying to put it back together. Just grab a fork and eat some of it off the floor. Then carry on.”

If I focus on what I love about baking, it’s never about creating something perfect. It is completely process oriented. I love the feeling of putting something together with my hands. I like creating with the season’s produce and noting what colors, textures and scents are present at the moment. I love feeding people and creating a moment of softness in their day. It’s not about speed, or perfection, or accomplishment. Not at all. It is a labor of love.

It’s a small thing that I carry with me daily. Just showing up and trying my best. Embracing my shortcomings and not comparing myself to others is a challenge, but baking has made me more loving of my self-perceived flaws.

What inspires your flavor combinations?

I take inspiration from everything. I romanticize everything – whether it’s a mood, a memory, a moment, the color palette of some wildflowers, a dish that my mum used to make. Seasonality and my surroundings always play a part in my thought process; flowers and fruits that bloom at the same time are also the most delicious when paired together, in taste and in appearance. My most steady source of inspiration though, is nostalgia – the flavors of my childhood and heritage. I love weaving teas, spices and herbs into classic bakes. 

What is your absolute favorite thing to bake? What about to eat?

Doughnuts! And anything yeasted, really. They requires a pace, attention and mindfulness that differs from other bakes. It feels particularly loving. 

The one treat I’ll never tire of eating is mochi. Filled with black sesame or red bean. I also love a carrot cake with raisins and nuts, which is contentious, I’ve learned. 

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Brioche doughnuts filled with almond crème pat and @hotjamnpreserves brown sugar fig jam.

Roasted strawberry galette with miso-hazelnut frangipane and honey-chamomile whip.

Liz and one of her beautiful creations.

What’s your favorite flower?

To bake with: Orange blossom or osmanthus.
To admire: Butterfly ranunculus. I also love cosmos flowers. They’re simple and a symbol of harmony and balance. 

What are you most looking forward to this coming year? Any big projects on the horizon?

I’m going to continue baking for sweet locals and all their special moments. I hope I never fall out of love with interacting with customers. There’s such a comfort and satisfaction to be had with seeing someone enjoy something you’ve baked with love. 

This last year, I’ve felt closer to better understanding myself, my creativity, and all the ways I can best nurture those around me. My passion for writing and recipe development is something I’ve been exploring more lately. Whether that manifests into a cookbook or something else, I’m not entirely sure at the moment. I’m hopeful though! The waters are deep and the possibilities are endless. 

Intro + Recipe from Liz

The smell of pumpkin and warm spices tends to awaken some sweet nostalgia. A dreamy time of year, with the anticipation of cozy nights, candle-lit gatherings, cafe dates. It’s togetherness. These memories only make a cake taste better. Sweeter. 

For me, this cake marks the first brisk moments of October. The pumpkin olive oil cake is light, moist and bursting with fall aroma. The chewy, buttery date caramel, and velvety sesame-spiked buttercream make for a beautiful contrast. The black pepper of the mousse is subtle, cutting through the cake’s sweetness, while also enhancing the vanilla and spices. 

Cake can be powerfully evocative while also creating tender new memories. And this one will leave you wanting to share a moment with your loved ones, or curl up with a warm blanket, longing for the leaves to take on amber tones.

Notes:

• If you prefer a cake with less adornment (or don’t have the time, energy, ingredients for it all), feel free to leave out a filling (or both the fillings) - the cake and buttercream alone provide enough flavor and wow-factor.

• For the unsweetened pumpkin puree, you can roast your own and then blend, or use canned (find one without added sugars and spices). 

• The olive oil can be substituted with any neutral-flavoured oil. I love using melted and browned butter for something extra nutty and decadent. 

• Cream cheese can be used in lieu of mascarpone. Add an extra tablespoon or two of icing sugar if using cream cheese.

Pumpkin Olive Oil Cake with Black Pepper Vanilla Mascarpone Mousse, Salty Date Caramel + Tahini White Chocolate Buttercream
[Makes one 8-inch layer cake]

For the Pumpkin cake:

• 1 ⅓ cups (170g) all-purpose flour

• 1 teaspoon baking powder

• ½ teaspoon baking soda

• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• ½ teaspoon ground cardamom

• ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

• ⅛ teaspoon ground allspice

• ½ teaspoon salt

• ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar

• ⅔ cup (130 grams) light brown sugar

• 2 large eggs

• 1 cup (230g) unsweetened pumpkin puree

• ½ cup (120ml) olive oil

1. Preheat the oven to 350F (180C). Grease and line two 8-inch round cake tins. 

2. In a medium sized bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, spices and salt. Set aside while you prep your wet ingredients. 

3. In a large bowl, whisk together both sugars and the olive oil, until well combined– about a minute. Add the eggs, one at a time, whisking well after each addition, and whisk until light, emulsified and glossy.

4. Whisk in the pumpkin puree. Finally, fold the dry ingredients, until well combined, and no clumps remain. 

5. Evenly divide between your two cake pans, and bake for 20-24 minutes, until golden, and a tester comes out with just a few moist crumbs. Allow the cakes to cool for 10-15 minutes in the pans, before removing and cooling completely on a rack. 

For the Black Pepper Vanilla Bean Mascarpone Mousse:

• 1 cup (8 oz) mascarpone (or cream cheese, softened)

• ¼ cup icing sugar

• Seeds from one vanilla bean, or a tsp vanilla bean paste

• One or two grinds of black pepper

• ½ cup heavy cream, whipped

1. In a mixer, with the paddle attachment, beat the mascarpone and sugar until very soft and creamed, then beat in a grinding or two of black pepper, and the vanilla bean.

2. Fold in the whipped cream until fully combined, then place in the fridge until needed. 

For the Salty Date Caramel, adapted from Beatrix Bakes:

(Note: This will yield more than you need; store in a jar, in the fridge, for up to two weeks. Enjoy with ice cream, fruit, by the spoonful.)

• ¾ cup (130 grams) pitted medjool dates

• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) heavy cream

• 1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons unsalted butter, softened

• ½ tsp vanilla bean paste

• ½ tsp sea salt

• 3 tablespoons (38 grams) sugar

1. Put the dates and 2 tablespoons (30ml) water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, cook for a few minutes, mashing the dates into a soft, pulpy paste. Scrape the mashed dates into a bowl and add the cream, butter, vanilla, and salt. Set aside.

2. Add the sugar to a small saucepan. Cook on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until completely melted and amber in colour. Remove from the heat, and immediately pour the mashed dates into the cooked sugar. Stir vigorously until well combined. Allow the caramel to cool to room temperature, before using or pouring into a jar to store. 

For the Tahini White Chocolate Swiss Meringue Buttercream:

(Note: Enough to frost your cake thick or thin– you’ll have a bit leftover if you prefer a less-generous frosting.)

• 4 egg whites

• ⅔ cup (135 grams) granulated sugar

• 1 cup (16 tablespoons, or 2 sticks) butter, slightly melted

• ⅓ cup (50 grams) white chocolate, roughly chopped

• ¼ cup (60 grams) smooth tahini

• Heavy pinch of salt

1. Put the chocolate into a heatproof bowl that’s set over a saucepan filled with a few inches of boiling water. Do not let the base of the bowl touch the water below. Stir, until the chocolate has melted. Keep warm while you make the meringue (I like to just remove from the heat but keep the bowl over the saucepan).

2. Next, put the egg whites and sugar into the bowl of a stand mixer. Set it over a saucepan filled with water. Heat, whisking constantly, until it reaches 160F (71 C). If you’re not using a thermometer, just check with your fingers– the sugar should be fully melted (no grainy bits) and warm to the touch. Immediately remove then set the bowl onto a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whisk on high speed until a thick and glossy meringue has formed, 5 to 7 minutes.

3. Add the butter gradually. Beat until well combined, smooth, and silky (might take 10-15 min). Switch to the paddle attachment (or simply stir in with a spatula). On low speed, stream in the chocolate, then the tahini. Continue to beat until silky-smooth. Mix in the pinch of salt. Use right away. 

For the cake assembly:

1. Place one cake layer on a plate, cake board, or platter. Pipe (or spread using a spatula) a tall border of buttercream along the edge of the cake– this will prevent the filling from spilling out. Evenly spread a layer of caramel, then the mousse, and top with the other layer of cake. Very lightly frost the sides of the cake (just to create a crumb coat, and to seal in the filling) – an offset spatula works best for this. Place the cake in the fridge for 10 minutes, to allow the buttercream to firm up.  

2. Generously frost the top and sides of your cake with the rest of the buttercream. Flourish with some edible blooms, if you have them.

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